Despite low clouds over a steely grey Bosphorus, I had a great Sunday which started like this:
Daughter No 1 and I had arranged to meet at 9.40 at the Sunday market in Kasımpaşa over on the European side of the city. On Sunday mornings there is no traffic so I was able to whizz over the Bosphorus Bridge in good time.
here she is |
This market is really special as the stallholders drive their kamyons laden with produce to Istanbul all through the night from Kastamonu which is in the Black Sea region in the north of Turkey, a drive not lightly undertaken by the rest of us at the best of times. They leave at 1am and are here to set up by 5 or so. The market is one of the great foodie secrets of Istanbul so is well worth making the effort to go.
what a sight: a huge basket of kuşburnu/rosehips |
The stuff is as fresh and as seasonal as it gets: they pick it the day before from their orchards and fields, collect the myriad varieties of homemade jams, molasses, cheeses, butter and kaymak, and load up their trucks for this weekly exodus to the big city. One shouldn’t be too late as not only punters like us go but many restaurants as well to get the pick of the crop.
the last above were soooo sour ….you’re supposed to eat the dark ones |
it’s the season for mushrooms: boxes and boxes of them everywhere I bought some to try |
…and sackfuls of chestnuts too |
amazing breads: on the L, baked in stone ovens on a bed of walnut leaves; on the R, stuffed with herbs yes, we got one of each the one below is stuffed with chard
|
a çay vendor with his çaydanlıks at the ready – when the market is over, he closes up the doors and trundles his cart away |
an old woman selling poultry |
ducks were 30TL each but my special price: 25TL! no, I didn’t buy one |
the most fantastic jams and molasses including chestnut honey you can sample them all on little sticks before buying |
another portable stand this time selling nohutlu pilav/ rice with chickpeas |
Next time we’ll go earlier and buy some of that delicious bread, cheese, and a selection of jams along with tomatoes, cucumbers and olives, not forgetting a few of those fresh eggs, and take it all home for a huge family breakfast!
this woman was having hers right there – she invited us to join her! |
The Kastamonu market is easy to find so you can do the same: it’s located in Dolapdere/Kasımpaşa, right behind the BP Petrol Station. Parking isn’t a problem as there is a large carpark right there.
See you there!
I've always wanted to go to this Sunday market! But I don't know where it is exactly, so will have to check in with you again before I venture out there someday. =)
I envy you the apples. They look real. They look as though they would taste like apples. American grocery apples shine like mirrors and taste like tissue paper. And they are so uniform they look fake. No bumps. No spots. No flavor.
I love this post. How fortunate you are to live in such a place.
You've just made me a little bit jealous there, Claudia. 🙂 This market looks great. Would love to try all the pekmez. And I'm VERY excited to see those çintar mushrooms. It was only last week we were saying they must be due soon. We've probably still got a little bit to wait here but at least we know they're on their way. 🙂
* Joy, with pleasure! It's not difficult at all.
* Betsy, yes, those apples were the real thing – usually Turkish apples aren't very good at all, just like yours.
*Julia,oh so that's what those mushrooms are called? Thanks for telling me. I suppose you are so much more south than we are that we are ahead of you. Well, especially those in Kastamonu! Gosh I bought some erik ekşisi ie plum molasses without sugar, just natural – it is absolutely delicious and I can't stop having little spoonfuls!
I love ,love,love the markets:) I love all the colours of food veggies fruit and the people.Fun:)
i would love shopping in this market! wow…what fun! i would buy everything!!!
Earmarked for our next stay in lovely Istanbul.
I love markets, strolling through markets and chatting with vendors and sampling their wares is one of my favorite things to do. I have yet to go to a market in France where they sell live poultry.
Yes, Dzoli, markets are really fun!
Octoberfarm: it's really difficult to rein oneself in and not buy everything!
Cuisinedeprovence: I thought of you!
Michel: they must have sold live poultry at some point – maybe it was EU regulations that put a stop to it?
hahaha! no..not a real brain! the baked brain is something i have made for my kids for years. it is a round of brie, sliced in half. i fill it with sauteed onions, peppers, mushrooms and pepperoni. then i wrap it in puff pastry. i roll strips of puff pastry to make the brain design. then i tint egg yolk with food coloring and 'paint' the top. i bake it and when it is ready, the kids cut into it and the 'brain' oozes out! i serve it on crackers. it is actually a great appetizer. the recipe is on my side bar under..baked brain!
oooh this sounds delicious as well as ingenious, octoberfarm!! How clever! I must have another look ….
Great pictures:)
Hi Claudia your Photos are fantastic.I love them very much.
Have a nice Sunday
Cali
I just love the photo of Ataturk inside the cayci's cart.
Thanks, Bolat and Cali, for your comments re my photos! I am working at it! In fact, I love the photography aspect of this blog and I look at other people's pics with great interest.
Anne: I am so happy you noticed that because I loved it too!! I was going to point it out in the post but then let it go so I really appreciate it that you mention it!
I have read about this particular farmer's market before we set off to Turkey last year. Unfortunately we didn't get around to it. I will have to make a point to be there the next time!